Jaguar growls and tortillas

So it is high time I wrote the first post on this new blog. Before I begin in earnest, I should explain the title - 'The Chilaquiles Chronicles'. I have already developed a crippling addiction to chilaquiles - which are composed of tortilla chips, red salsa, green salsa, queso fresco, sour cream, refried beans and eggs - because they are included in the free breakfast buffet at the hotel. Today I went cold turkey to try and regain control, but I bought a delicious but cholesterol-laden ham and cheese croissant instead so I don't think I'm doing very well.

After my KLM flight on Friday, I can officially confirm that I am a convert to the charms of business class. It really didn't take much! Though it turns out that even if you have an enormous seat, you can still be annoyed by inconsiderate neighbours - the fat man in the seat next to me had no concept of personal space which meant that his immigration form, napkin and blanket kept creeping over the armrest and into my seat. But the fact that there was seat for it to go onto (i.e. I was still several inches away) means I really can't complain.

I had been fearing the effects of altitude when I arrived but felt nothing at all beyond suddenly feeling a bit tired on Saturday, which I would have expected anyway with jetlag.  I wandered down the street my hotel is on, Paseo de la Reforma, which is a stately avenue lined with palm trees and interesting modern sculptures, until I hit the historic centre. The main square, the Zócalo, is vast, nearly as big as Tiananmen Square, and houses various impressive buildings, including the blinging (there is no other word for a building containing so much gold) Metropolitan cathedral. There was also a big '100 years of the army' exhibition - unlike various other countries in the region, Mexico has not had the army taking over from civilian rule, so the public's attitude towards it is quite different from other places, and there was an enormous queue to get in to see the cadets. I passed and decided to take the metro back instead, which was an experience - walking CD vendors prowl the carriages with speakers in their backpacks pumping out mariachi music. Lots of sombrero sightings too, which was pleasing.

On Sunday I went with my new boss and his girlfriend to Teotihuacan, which is 50km outside the city and houses some astonishing pre-Hispanic monuments, including the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon and tremendous avenues of stepped ruined buildings, in an immaculate grid pattern. It's a place full of mystery - they're still not really sure how the temples were used or quite who was worshipped. And they don't really have much idea who actually lived in Teotihuacan - the latest theory is that it was an early example of multiculturalism. These days it is pretty busy with daytrippers, to the point where you have to wait in a queue at various points on the climb up the Pyramid of the Sun. It's worth it, though, for the sudden amazement at how high you've got, and how majestic everything is around you. Dotted around the ruins at ground level are lots of trinket-sellers, the most noticeable of which sell little whistle things that can either make a bird noise or an unnerving jaguar growl.

The Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan, which I climbed! Pictorial evidence of that coming soon.

As you might expect, food has been a priority and I have eaten very well. There are still tons of things on my list to try but I have already consumed my body weight in corn products. Lots of tacos, pozole (see below), empanadas... I plan to have a tamale for breakfast next. Everything is supercheap - a humongous bowl of pozole cost me just over £2 and I keep being able to pay for things in change... Drinks have been good too, though I had a panic when I ordered a michelada, as recommended by Sam Gibbons, and there was no Maggi sauce or chilli in sight! I hurriedly asked my colleague what was going on and she explained that the word 'michelada' means different things in different parts of Mexico - in Mexico City, as it turns out, it means slightly sweet lime juice at the bottom of a tall glass rimmed with salt, with the beer poured on the top.

Pozole: predictably, it involves corn and chilli...

British music appears to have invaded the city. All sorts of Brits playing, from One Direction and the Wanted to David Bowie and the Police. Part of me wonders whether this is just success for the GREAT campaign but I suspect the reality is less organised. Apparently the Beatles (pronounced the 'beet-lez') are huge here, which is a boon when explaining how to pronounce the name Maxwell, as there is a ready-made song title reference.

Work has been fun - all a bit hectic, but enjoyably so. Lots to learn but bit by bit I understand what people are talking about a bit more... Tomorrow will be my first external event which is entirely Spanish-speaking - easing myself in gradually by going to a lecture tomorrow, then a Spanish-speaking meeting with EU partners on Friday (though I am very lucky to have an exceptionally knowledgeable and bilingual colleague going to both, so I can be nearly mute without it being too awkward). The office chatter is in Spanglish which is entertaining and I am doing my best to make my Murcian accent a bit more comprehensible... I enjoy the fact that our team meetings are outside on the terrace, with early-summer-style sunshine and bougainvillea trailing along the walls. Quite a change from snowy Brussels!

PLEASE comment if you can, it makes blogging so much more fun. It's very easy to sign in with a Google account to Blogger, and that way you can also comment on Matt's blog too... I think Ali's blog is on a different platform but do read hers as well (otherwise she will kill me once she gets to Mexico next month!). Hope to hear from you soon!